In Greek, Exoghi means “Out of this world”. The village of Exoghi hides away at the very top of a hill overlooking Afales Bay on Ithaca’s north coast and at the end of a winding road from the village of Stavros.
Fassoulou's Cottage is on one of the lower village terraces and commands a magnificent panoramic view over the deep blue waters of Afales Bay, across the sea to the islands of Lefkas, Meganissi, Kalamos, Arkoudi and Atokos, and down Ithaca’s northern valleys of olive groves.
The cottage belonged to a widow, who was known as "Fassoulou": the "bean lady". She was famous for growing a myriad of vegetables in her small garden (where the cottage's upper floor now stands) without access to a water cistern. She would carry her water can on her head, or with a neighbour's donkey, from the Kalamos spring. She always had beans strung along the fence and thus the nickname.
From the village a track leads to the uninhabited, mountain top monastery of Pernarakia. Surrounding the village there are many walking trails to hidden hamlets such as Kalamos with its natural spring water.
Up to the middle of the 20th Century the village’s population was 1,500 and the surrounding hillside terraces were covered with vineyards. Today a population of just 10 (rising to over 50 in the summer with Ithacans returning from far away lands) look after the smaller vineyards. These families favour peace and quiet but guests at Fassoulou’s Cottage must expect the occasional sounds of village life: goat and church bells; neighbour welcoming neighbour etc.
The terraces remain, under the wild growth of sage, thyme, mastic and pine trees, hiding Thodoro's goat herds, betrayed only by their tingling bells.
Narrow pathways of cobblestone connect the hillside terraces and pass the tired remains of old threshing floors, olive presses, shops and the village school. Below Exoghi, just before the village of Platrithia, a large Mycenaean palatial building has been excavated and identified by Greek archaeologists as the palace of Odysseus.
Maid service & linen change twice weekly
Location: car hire is recommended. Stavros (4 kilometres away) has two tavernas, two small supermarkets, a pharmacy, a bakery and a butcher. Yefyri's taverna in Platrithea is excellent. The seaside village of Frikes (good waterfront tavernas and boat hire) is 6 kilometres. Afales beach is an 8 minute drive.
Groceries can be delivered by the Odysseas Super Market and by Kosmas (Nikolaki's) grocery store in Stavros.
Ground floor of a sitting room and dining area; kitchen; small bathroom with shower; steps up to a mezzanine double bedroom (50 cm stone walls keep this room cool). Staircase from sitting room up to the first floor of a double bedroom (air-con) and en suite bathroom with shower.
Each floor has internal and external access.
- Washing machine
- Hairdryers provided
The prices quoted are for 1 or 2 people staying for 1 week. Please ask us for prices for 3 - 4 people.
"We live in Athens but love staying in Exoghi and do so whenever we can. It is isolated but not too much as we can walk or drive to Stavros or Frikes to swim, meet friends and shop and then come up to our hideaway place.
For beaches - hire a boat from Poli Bay, Frikes, or Kioni and discover the many small, peopleless coves.
If you are adventurous and like to walk, there is a beach all the way down from Exoghi, taking the Kalamos footpath and down from there to "Perivoli" in Afales Bay. A great beach to make a day of it, as there is shade to take a nap before making the walk back up."
Lila & Andreas (Fassoulou's owners), 11-Nov-2016